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Visiting the Baduy villages

by Dr. Soraya Christine Lingbeek
Experience in 4 major Tai Chi styles and other martial arts.Special interest in Chen style.Teachers:Grandmaster Chenxiaowang, Mr.Jan Silberstorff, Mr.Chen YIngjun. Practicing Physician

If you ever visit Indonesia, you should never miss visiting the Baduy villages where you combine a cultural, nature and sporting experience. The Baduy tribes or Kanekes" life and culture seemed to stand still after many centuries.

One of the Jakarta local couchsurfers, Fernand Wongso, has taken a lot of efforts to organise a weekend trip to the Baduy land. We drove there during the night time and arrived at the parking lot just outside their community. Our guide Erwin who also served as the assisten lurah(assistant to the village chief) greeted us and soon we embarked on a beautiful hike through the beautiful mountainous area of the Baduy land.

The track was certainly not paved like many other forest tracks in the Western world neither is it a completely trackless area. To be honest, I was not really prepared for this and came with very low quality sneekers. During the rainy season, the rough and slippery steep hills consisting of small and big boulders were a real challenge for those who don't have the right shoes or have any physical illnesses.

The beautiful landscape however would make up for any suffering we had to endure during the trek. We climbed down the steep slippery boulders to the waterfall and then crossed a beautiful canopy walk on a bridge made of big roots. After this trek we had a home-cooked brunch at Erwin's house and had the opportunity to admire his wife's weaving skills. I slipped on one of the wet boulders and Erwin fell on me as I lost too much of my balance. Erwin was very helpful and caring while he supported me on the slippery boulders many times

I was not very tired since my stamina is quite durable due to my sporty life. But I was rather embarrased to slow down the group, had a slight fever from a flu and the bad shoes were rather a discouragement for a further hike on slippery steep hills. Apart from this, I don't have a particular liking for slippery hills and boulder hopping.

As the others moved on to stay at the next village, Erwin invited me to stay at his place while he himself joined the others to stay at the other village. This village was further away from the outside world and has more genuine Baduy life.

So I missed a lot of the beautiful nature and other villages, on the other hand I could visit three villages on my own and spent more time with the villagers and even get to know their life better. I helped Erwin's wife and son with cooking and shopping. I thought this was Couchsurfing of the very special kind and even each of us had their own room which was a total luxury for a Baduy village. Erwin's house had a clean toilet and bathroom which was unusual for a Baduy village too. The house was located right on the border and we virtually could watch TV from the front part of his house.

The village where I stayed was located right on the border to the outside world and so they arranged 2 TVs in the neighbouring house. A lot of the Baduy Dalam or Inner more pure Baduys came here and joined watching TV or talking to visitors. Some of the ladies in the villge were very outgoing and enterprising. They told me about the many sociology researchers who spent some time in the village while a few of the scientists had concerns of how long this secluded culture could exist.

Anyway, at least some small kids loved to watch English lessons on TV and immitate the words taught on the program. The Baduys themselves were friendly, hospitable and welcoming. The inner Baduys started to sell their own products while the Outer BAduys performed most of the sales business. We need to be careful not to tell them our addresses, otherwise they will walk all the way down to the city to sell their products


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Being convinced that cultural activities, goods and services have both an economic and a cultural nature, because they convey identities, values and meanings, and must therefore not be treated as solely having commercial value